Monday, May 24, 2010

Back home going off

Raglan's one of the jewels of NZ with 4 sections to it, here's a video clip of it breaking only a couple of weeks ago, this is the inside section Manu bay...imagine what outside Indicators was doing 800m out further!!

Saturday, May 8, 2010

A bloody good mate

  I had just woken up with a bit of a hangover after being on the beer with John, I dragged my sorry arse out of the stale air of the bedroom through the lounge and out onto the balcony of my 2nd floor apartment, the steel cold and damp under my feet, the air crisp, with every breath my vision came less blurred looking out beyond the green paddocks my eyes started to focus on a wave peeling off in the distance, clean and lined up. Turning me phone on my voicemail was prompting me, a message from John left at 4am, it went like this...”hahaha I'm pissing on your balcony”, John lives in the top apartment! Standing there listening to that it just dawned on me where exactly i was standing and it hadn't rained over night!
  A month or so later i had to move out of my apartment and used this as a favour and asked him if i could move in for a month or so while I find a new place to stay...4 years later i finally moved out! Over those 4 years i got to know John and he's one of the most genuine blokes you will ever meet, he tells it the way it is and has a joke for any situation. John will do anything he possibly can to help someone out and his knowledge of everything is astonishing. If you ever see him walking down the beach with his surfboard you'd swear he's a kook as John wears his legrope on his front foot which he reckons he's so used to it now it feels too weird to change it, but he is far from a kook, being surfing for a while John surfs pretty good and has some pretty big gonads and drive to find new spots and surf on his own, not because he wants to surf by himself thou it's because he kinda gets a bit over excited when driving to the surf and a passenger will
generally last just the once. Althou since getting married to his beautifull wife last year i do believe that he has calmed his driving down a bit.
   Anyways the reason for this is something i should've done a while back, a thank you for what you have done for me over the last few years, letting me stay without hesitation, making me laugh so hard that i got stomach cramps, the nights on the beer and showing me you can make your voice go squeaky when inhaling helium from a baloon through your nose hahaha, that was so frign funny, the wicked surfs we've had especially the session at Brandon bay and some of those gem of spots you have showed me.

Cheers john, you're a feckn legend

Monday, May 3, 2010

Tim Bonython's "Sessions 2"

Well I have been waiting for this for a while and finally it's out. The insanely rediculace new movie "Sessions 2" is now available to buy at . Check out the new trailer by clicking here . Some of the shit that's going down in the trailer alone is beyond belief. I am a big fan of Tim's and i know this dvd will not disappoint. I remember that first photo of The Box that came out in the late 1980's as this is probably where the first real heavy gnarly slab hunting in Oz was started, the first in my mind anyway, slab hunting has changed dramatically since the introduction of skis and this is where they find their home in big gnarly heavy stuff. The last 2 years have been off the frign scale and Sessions 2 looks to show it off big time, hats off to ya Tim and can hardly wait to get my copy. It certainly has inspired me

Saturday, May 1, 2010

surfing sheep

hahaha i just had to put this up