Sunday, April 25, 2010

Wave porn

Right so, it's sunday morning and I can't sleep in. I just can't stay in bed & never have, I mean what's the point in lying there doing nothing so I decided to put a few shots up of a few empty waves. The first of which is kinda a funny story. I was in the pub back home with me mates the night before and I remember saying to them i'm only having a few jugs tonite as ******** is going to be filth in the morning, i'll pick yas up at 5am. Now this particular spot is not well known and is known to be very fickle so a crowd there is usually just us maybe 3 times a year. Well they all said it wasn't going to be great and were going to keep drinking. I left just before midnight and hit the hay, waking up I had butterflies and jumped in the trusty wagon and tore off to*********. It was still dark when I was putting the wetsuit on but i could hear it breaking, the wind was lite and offshore. I ended up taking this photo after surfing it by myself for 3 hrs, & yes that is marram grass, meaning lots of sand and one hell of a perfect long point break. By the time i got out of me wetsuit it had turned onshore then me mates turned up. Me still frothing at what i am saying is the longest rides i have ever had was telling the boys they missed it, of course they didn't believe me...until I got the photo developed. Most of the photos below are early morning & empty so why sleep in if you're missing it.

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