Saturday, November 27, 2010

Paradise found

 The first thing I noticed when I hoped off the plane in Honolulu was how thick the air was, my lungs were for a moment going into spasms. I had been travelling for almost 30hrs since leaving me mates place in London, with arriving at midnight it was too late to head to my accomodation. So I tried to get some sleep perched up against the warm concrete wall, another 8hrs of no sleep. I finally got to the house at 9am and really wanted to hit the hay but I knew Sunset was only going to be good for the day then the swell's going to dissapear.
   The walk to Sunset is 5mins and I can see it from the end of our path at the beach, what a beautiful view with the golden sands, crystal clear water and green palms everywhere. I was pretty tired at this stage and had no interest in shooting much as I was finding the heat a bit errr ummm much, everyone was saying it was cold!
  There were some nice waves at the contest, unfortunately Kiwi girl Paige got knocked out in round 2 but I was stoked I got to see her surf. Later that evening I just sat down on the rustic seats at the end our path and watched the sun set thinking I'm so frign tired right now but the view was too nice to walk away from.
  It's really mad here, everyone is pretty much in bed by 9pm and the whole place is quiet and peaceful, so after about 50hrs of a couple of 10min naps I finally got to sleep and man did I sleep, a dreamless deep sleep.
  The next day was Thanks Giving and I went for a wander down to Rocky's and took a few snaps, so many good surfers here, the most of them out were locals. The women here really rip, they go hard out there giving it to the guys. On my way back I got invited to a house just down from where I was staying for some thanks giving dinner and beers, sitting on that balcony surrounded by people I didn't know looking over the ocean it dawned on me, this is paradise, it's winter but the water and air is warm, lots of surf and friendly people. They don't take it for granted either, everyday they make the most of it.
   This is only the first 2 days of my months stay, burnt to crisp and luving it.
The view from out walkway from the house

Carissa Moore

Carissa Moore
The view

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