Sunday, November 29, 2009

Hugh Galloway rips

I first saw Hugh surf at this very same spot a couple of years ago with Fergal, and the 2 of them ripped the place apart. A couple of years on he still charges harder than ever, he paddled out here the other day when alot of others were staying in there cars with the heaters on full with a nervous look on their faces whether to go out or not, most didn't. He got a couple of great barrels before his leash snapped and had the good old swim in, when Hugh walked past me i said to him "looks heavy and a bit all over the place", his reply was "ah it's nice once you get out the back, good hollow barrels". I ended up giving him my longboard leash and he went running back out and pulled into some really nice barrels, most of which i missed due to the wave in front sending too much spray up, maybe i should jump in the water and shoot...I don't think so! Hugh pretty much dropped into everything everyone alse paddled for the shoulder until dark, the kid's got balls, some shots below from the session
1 of many bystanders

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